Inspect Your Wood Siding Now, Or Pay The Price Later!

Protecting your home against the effects of wind, rain, heat and cold is a tough job that requires tough materials. Because your house's wood siding is at the mercy of the elements, it's no wonder that repairs become necessary in time.

Wood siding, whether it's in the form of boards, shingles, or shakes is durable and, with annual maintenance, should last your house's lifetime. It's important to repair simple surface problems holes in the wood, split and warped wood and damaged paint - as soon as they appear.

If shingles or shakes are severely damaged, it's usually best to replace them, since they usually can't be effectively repaired and are hard to conceal. It's best to determine the cause of any serious damage before you replace any siding. If moisture is causing the problem, find the source by checking for leaking gutters or downspouts, deteriorating roofing or poor drainage. Then make the necessary corrections.


If you can't locate the source of the problem, or after removing damaged siding you find evidence of dry rot or insect infestation, it's best to consult a professional.


The approach to replace siding depends on the type of siding and how it's nailed. Common siding includes; Clapboard, Tongue-and-Groove, Dolly Varden, Bevel, Channel Rustic, Shiplap and Board-and-Batten. Often, the most difficult part is not replacing the board but finding a replacement that matches the original.

No matter what type of siding you replace, the damaged piece needs to be cut and the nails removed before you replace it. It's easiest to cut the damaged board with a circular saw. Set the blade depth just shy of the thickness of the siding and saw almost to each edge of the damaged board. Use a hammer and chisel to complete the end cuts.

Operate the circular saw with caution and wear safety goggles. Hold the saw firmly because it may kick back. We will show you how to operate the saw and explain all its safety features.

Next, pry out the damaged board. If the building paper gets damaged, repair it with roofing cement. Carefully measure and cut the new piece of siding so it fits correctly. For best results, cut out and replace a section that spans at least three studs, and use a carpenter's square when marking the cutting lines to keep them at right angles.

Slide in the replacement board and face nail the board. Counter sink the nail heads so they're below the wood's surface, then caulk or putty the nail holes and sand to a finish.

Damage to wood siding can also be repaired inconspicuously by filling holes, fixing split or warped boards and repainting.

To conceal a small hole, fill it with putty and allow to dry. For larger holes, apply putty in layers allowing each layer time to dry. When the final layer is dry, sand the surface smooth with a power sander. We have them available to rent. Then finish the putty to match the surrounding siding.

A clean split or crack can be repaired by prying the board apart and coating both edges with waterproof glue. Then nail or screw the board back into position.

Warping occurs when boards have been fitted too tightly during installation. If it doesn't have any room to expand when it swells with moisture, the board warps or buckles.

First try to straighten it by driving long screws through it and into the wall studs. Use an electric drill to drill the holes and counter sinks for the screws. Afterwards, cover the screws with putty, then sand and finish. If that doesn’t work, you Will have to shorten the board to give it some room. Remove the nails within the warped area to the nearest end of the board. Pull the board's end outward; then file it with a rasp and sand to finish. Or, use a block plane to remove wood on the end, little by little, until the board fits. Then re-nail the board.